Kilwa Kisiwani, Tanzania

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Kilwa Kisiwani, Tanzania발음듣기

(light piano music) [Voiceover] I'm speaking with Stephen Battle, who is Program Director for sub-Saharan Africa for the World Monuments Fund, and we're talking about the ancient city of Kilwa.발음듣기

[Voiceover] Kilwa is located in the south of Tanzania, and, in fact, there are two islands in the Kilwa occupalico, Kilwa Kiswani and Songo Mnara, today, surrounded by dense mangrove.발음듣기

[Voiceover] It's hard to re-imagine what this landscape must have looked like when these ports were in their hay-day.발음듣기

These were cosmopolitan centers. 발음듣기

[Voiceover] So, nowadays, it's a very poor part of the world.발음듣기

There's a village on each of the islands, and most people in those villages make their living from fishing or from subsistence farming.발음듣기

But, at one time, it was probably the most powerful city-state in the whole of East Africa.발음듣기

[Voiceover] And there were a series of city-states.발음듣기

These were trading centers that dotted the Swahili coast, down the east coast of Africa.발음듣기

[Voiceover] The word Swahili means, in Arabic, people of the coast.발음듣기

The Swahili civilization occupied coastal East Africa from around beginning of the ninth century through until the 17th/18th century.발음듣기

Indeed, descendants of the Swahili still live along the coast of East Africa.발음듣기

[Voiceover] So, this is an indigenous culture, but one that readily absorbed influences from the entire Indian Ocean region.발음듣기

[Voiceover] The Swahili were traders. They were merchants.발음듣기

They traded all across the Indian Ocean, north to the gulf region, east to India, and as far away as China.발음듣기

[Voiceover] And we can see that probably most clearly in the fact that this is an Islamic culture.발음듣기

And, for instance, in the mosque we see embedded the wall a bowl from China, celadon ceramics, and so we've see evidence of this cosmopolitan environment.발음듣기

[Voiceover] The Swahili was really a collection of city-states, dotted along the East African coast.발음듣기

Each had a certain degree of autonomy with its own sultan, but by the mid-14th century the Sultan of Kilwa had asserted his power over all of the city-states, and the source of his power, and of his wealth, was really control over the gold trade.발음듣기

Gold was mined in, what is today Zimbabwe, and brought on foot to the coast in, what is today Northern Mozambique, loaded onto dhows, sailing ships, and then transported north ending up in the marketplaces of Fatimid, Cairo.발음듣기

And the Sultan of Kilwa levied a custom's duty on all of that exported gold passing through the waters that he controlled, and, thereby, grew fabulously wealthy.발음듣기

[Voiceover] And we can see evidence of that wealth if we look, for instance at the Great Palace on Kilwa, and we can see, here, evidence of gardens, a pool, most famously, both the private residence and the commercial activities that was the source of wealth for this culture.발음듣기

[Voiceover] It's the Great Palace is known in Kiswahili as Husumi Kubwa, and it was built by Sultan Al-Hasan bin Sulaiman.발음듣기

It has been described by an eminent art-historian, Peter Garlig, as the earliest surviving major building on the coast of East Africa, south of Somalia, and, by far, the largest and most sophisticated.발음듣기

[Voiceover] When you look at photographs, it's a little bit difficult, I think, to reconstruct what the palace might have looked like.발음듣기

In part, because what we see are these large, extremely rough blocks of coral.발음듣기

It's important to imagine that they were smoothed, and that many of these surfaces were, in fact, painted.발음듣기

[Voiceover] So, the palace consists of two main areas.발음듣기

There's a public area and a private area.발음듣기

And in the public area, is a very large courtyard with a number of storerooms, and that area would have been used for trade goods taken by the sultan.발음듣기

There's an intermediary space, which is an audience hall, or diwan, which consists of a sunken courtyard with a series of steep steps where people coming to see the sultan would have sat and faced him.발음듣기

And then you get to the private part of the building, built around a bathing pool open to the view across the harbor, and the sultan would have bathed inside this pool whilst watching the sun set over mainland Africa.발음듣기

[Voiceover] I find it so interesting this more public mercantile space of the diwan.발음듣기

A traveler given an audience, and the kinds of cross-cultural opportunities.발음듣기

But soon enough, this wealth would attract the Portuguese.발음듣기

[Voiceover] So in 1498, the first Portuguese ship sailed up the coast of East Africa.발음듣기

The Portuguese had come to Africa in search of gold, and they found it at Kilwa.발음듣기

In 1505, the Portuguese established a garrison of soldiers on Kilwa.발음듣기

You have to remember that the Swahili were really a mercantile people.발음듣기

They had great sea-faring skills, but had no experience of sea warfare, and could not match, in any way, the fire power of the Portuguese.발음듣기

[Voiceover] The best physical evidence we have that represents this occupation, is a fort which dominates the view from the sea.발음듣기

[Voiceover] Remarkably, contemporary Portuguese accounts say that the fort was built in 16 days.발음듣기

That's a little difficult to credit, but it's clear, when you examine the building, that it was based on an existing house.발음듣기

And it seems, again, from looking at contemporary accounts, that the Portuguese demolished a number of other houses in the close proximity and used the materials taken from those demolished houses to build up the fort.발음듣기

It seems by the time the Portuguese garrison left, in 1512, it was really quite a substantial defensive building situated on the edge of the harbor.발음듣기

[Voiceover] And the Portuguese would remain a very powerful presence in the Indian Ocean.발음듣기

But, they would be replaced by the Omanis, by the Sultan of Oman, up in the Persian Gulf.발음듣기

[Voiceover] The Omani Arabs had been trading up and down the East African coast for centuries.발음듣기

After the Portuguese arrived, they increasingly came into conflict with the Omanis.발음듣기

And so, in the late-1730, 18th century, they launched a systematic attempt to kick the Portuguese out of East Africa forever.발음듣기

[Voiceover] And, it's at this point, that Kilwa experiences a resurgence, a kind of economic boom, under the Omani.발음듣기

In fact, the Omani loved the East African coast so much that they would relocate their capital to the coast of Africa, and there would be a significant building campaign in Kilwa, as well.발음듣기

And probably the most extravagant example is an Omani palace.발음듣기

[Voiceover] The foundations of this palace, the so-called Makutani Palace were built by one of the earliest Swahili sultans.발음듣기

But when the Omanis finally gained complete control over Kilwa, and the rest of the East African coast, they expanded and greatly added to the Makutani Palace, and created the structure that you see today.발음듣기

[Voiceover] Kilwa's source of wealth was clearly gold, but it also transformed over time.발음듣기

This would have included ivory and enslaved peoples.발음듣기

But as time progressed, enslaved peoples made up a larger and larger percentage of trade and of the wealth of the city.발음듣기

[Voiceover] Kilwa became, in the mid-19th century, the major trans-shipment point from mainland Africa to the principle slave market on Zanzibar.발음듣기

So, the Makutani Palace consists of a building within a building, The palace is really at the center, and that would have been the residential area.발음듣기

But that sits within a much larger walled stockade used to store trade goods, but also, most likely, would have been used to imprison enslaved peoples before they shipped north to Zanzibar.발음듣기

[Voiceover] We have the indigenous Swahili culture building on this island with the Portuguese asserting their influence, and then the Makutani Palace this expression of Omani control, this layering of history.발음듣기

And now, all of it is in ruins, but the World Monuments Fund is stepping in.발음듣기

[Voiceover] And that's what's so remarkable about Kilwa Kisiwani and its sister-island, Songo Mnara.발음듣기

It really represents a slice through over 800 years of East African culture, starting from the early 10th century Swahili occupation right up until the early 20th century when it became the capital of colonial German East Africa.발음듣기

What's remarkable is that extraordinary structures from each of these periods of occupation still stand on those two islands. (light piano music) 발음듣기

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