Necklace (Lei Niho Palaoa), Hawai'i

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Necklace (Lei Niho Palaoa), Hawai'i발음듣기

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[Beth] We're in the gallery at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that houses amazing works from Polynesia.발음듣기

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And we're looking at a necklace that dates to the early mid-19th century from Hawaii.발음듣기

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[Maia] This is a spectacular necklace which incorporates these heavy bolts of very finely plaited and braided human hair.발음듣기

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[Beth] And the decorative form at the bottom that curves upward is made from whale ivory.발음듣기

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Both the hair and the ivory are very important materials here.발음듣기

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[Maia] Yes, it's the materiality of the various elements of this necklace that really point to the deeper cosmological framework in which operated.발음듣기

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The sperm whale tooth, this ivory that this pendant is carved from is a relic of Kanaloa Kanaloa is the god that presides over the realm of the ocean, the moana, and this is a Tapu's face.발음듣기

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[Beth] So when you're wearing this you're announcing your relationship to the god.발음듣기

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[Maia] This was ceremonial regalia.발음듣기

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Chiefs wore these to assert their divine right to rule.발음듣기

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Chiefs really are deemed to have direct descent from gods.발음듣기

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And wearing the condensed bone of the god that presides over the ocean.발음듣기

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And wearing the immaculately plaited finely braided hair of your ancestors creates this very powerful means of asserting your legitimacy and your right to rule.발음듣기

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And that pendant is spectacularly carved.발음듣기

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You can see how it tapers in gently and then flares out where it has this horizontal ridge.발음듣기

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And then it tucks down and up into this beautifully fluid upward curve.발음듣기

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[Beth] And that curve is very thinly carved.발음듣기

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It looks fragile.발음듣기

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[Maia] You can see that very fine rim, it's so perfect.발음듣기

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It looks very much like a tongue.발음듣기

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This may have been a reference to oratory and it's the beginnings of a circle.발음듣기

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So if you'd imagine that this chief may well have been wearing a mathiole or a feathered helmet along with a feathered cape, no doubt.발음듣기

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The mathiole or feathered helmets include a raised crest which protected the head which is the seat of power.발음듣기

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And so curving down from the top it infers this full circle which the head of the chief is embedded.발음듣기

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[Beth] And the contrast between these materials is so stark.발음듣기

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Yeah. - We have the matte texture of the hair and then the luminous surface of the whalebone.발음듣기

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[Maia] You can really see that it's a whale ivory it's a tooth of a sperm whale because of that creamy outer layer but then you can see this yellowy dentate core which runs down the center part of it.발음듣기

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[Beth] And it almost reads like gold.발음듣기

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[Maia] It's incredibly valuable.발음듣기

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Whales were not hunted islanders would wait until they beached on the reef.발음듣기

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Whales are the embodiment or essence of the god of Kanaloa.발음듣기

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[Beth] So we see this in a museum case and it's important to remember.발음듣기

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Although we can admire this and look at it closely as an aesthetic object that it was something that was worn that had very specific meaning to those who looked at it and to the person who owned it and wore it.발음듣기

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[Maia] These are heirlooms, these are sacred treasures they were handed down through generations and they retain this power and vitality.발음듣기

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They're not static artworks, they're really vital living objects which link us to the past.발음듣기

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